In the remote highlands of Ardahan, where harsh winters and brief summers shape every aspect of life, a unique culinary tradition has evolved over centuries. Here, food is more than sustenance – it’s survival, celebration, and cultural identity wrapped into every carefully preserved bite.
Ardahan Tulum Cheese Wrapped in traditional sheepskin and aged in cool caves, Ardahan’s signature cheese represents centuries of nomadic wisdom. The high-altitude pastures, where cattle graze on wild herbs and mountain flowers, produce milk with an intensity unmatched anywhere else in Turkey. Each wheel of tulum cheese tells the story of ancient preservation techniques that allowed communities to survive the brutal highland winters.
The Cheese-Making Process Local families still follow methods passed down through generations. Fresh milk is collected at dawn, heated in copper cauldrons, and carefully cultured with natural rennet. The curds are pressed using stone weights, then wrapped in specially prepared sheepskin before being buried in underground cellars where they age for minimum six months. The result is a cheese with complex flavors ranging from mild and creamy to sharp and tangy, depending on the season and aging process.
Hangel (Highland Dumplings) These hearty pasta parcels filled with local cheese and herbs represent the perfect fusion of Turkish and Caucasian influences. Traditionally made by grandmothers during long winter evenings, hangel preparation is a communal activity that brings families together. The dough is rolled paper-thin, filled with fresh cheese and wild greens, then boiled and served with garlic yogurt and brown butter.
Ardahan Tandır Kebab Unlike its urban cousins, Ardahan’s tandır kebab uses highland lamb that grazes on aromatic mountain herbs. The meat is slow-cooked in underground ovens heated with juniper wood, creating a smoky flavor that can’t be replicated elsewhere. The cooking process takes 8-12 hours, resulting in meat so tender it falls off the bone.
Kaburga Dolması (Stuffed Lamb Ribs) A festive dish reserved for special occasions, whole lamb ribs are carefully deboned and stuffed with a mixture of rice, pine nuts, currants, and local herbs. The preparation requires exceptional skill, as the meat must remain intact while being filled. The result is a centerpiece dish that showcases the region’s culinary sophistication.
Çorba-i Ardahan (Ardahan Soup) This warming soup combines local grains, dried legumes, and preserved vegetables to create a meal that sustained highland communities through winter isolation. Every family has their own version, but common ingredients include barley, lentils, dried mint, and chunks of aged cheese added just before serving.
Spring Gathering Season When snow melts reveal the first green shoots, local families head to the mountains for wild harvesting. Tender nettle leaves, wild onions, and mountain spinach are gathered and either consumed fresh or dried for winter use. These foraged greens add unique flavors and essential nutrients to the highland diet.
Summer Preservation Frenzy The brief summer season sees intense activity as families preserve everything possible for winter survival. Vegetables are pickled in large ceramic jars, herbs are dried in bundles, and fruits are turned into jams and fruit leather. The most prized preservation is “kavurma” – meat slowly cooked in its own fat and stored in sealed containers.
Autumn Dairy Season As cattle return from high pastures, families engage in intensive dairy production. This is cheese-making season, when the year’s supply of tulum cheese is prepared. Fresh butter is clarified and stored, while excess milk is turned into various dried dairy products that will provide protein through the winter months.
Underground Ovens (Tandır) These earth ovens, heated with burning wood and then sealed, create the perfect slow-cooking environment. The retained heat cooks food gradually over many hours, developing complex flavors impossible to achieve with modern methods.
Copper Cookware Highland families prize their copper pots and pans, passed down through generations. The metal’s superior heat conduction is essential for proper milk heating during cheese production and creates the perfect texture for traditional dishes.
Preservation Techniques Without refrigeration, traditional preservation methods became art forms. Smoking, salting, drying, and fermentation techniques developed over centuries ensure nothing edible is wasted.
Grandmother Ayşe’s Hangel Ingredients:
Method: Mix flour, egg, and water to form smooth dough. Rest 30 minutes. Roll paper-thin, cut into squares. Fill with cheese and greens mixture. Boil in salted water until they float. Serve with garlic yogurt and brown butter.
Highland Honey Lokum Made with wild mountain honey and natural gelatin from local livestock, this dessert captures the essence of Ardahan’s pure mountain environment. The honey’s complex flavor, derived from hundreds of wild flower species, creates a lokum unlike any found in Turkish cities.
The Sacred Act of Sharing In Ardahan’s harsh environment, sharing food isn’t just hospitality – it’s survival insurance. Families who share their provisions in good times can expect reciprocal help during difficult periods. This creates a community bond that transcends individual families.
Seasonal Celebrations Food plays a central role in marking the seasons. Spring’s first wild greens are celebrated with special soups, summer’s dairy abundance is honored with cheese festivals, and autumn’s harvest is preserved with community preservation parties where neighbors help each other prepare for winter.
The Art of Slow Food Long before “slow food” became a movement, Ardahan families practiced it by necessity. Without modern conveniences, every meal required time, skill, and appreciation. This created a food culture that values quality over quantity, tradition over convenience.
Today’s Ardahan cooks adapt traditional recipes for contemporary kitchens while maintaining authentic flavors. Urban families with Ardahan roots often return each summer to learn traditional techniques from elderly relatives, ensuring these culinary traditions survive another generation.
Local restaurants in Ardahan city now serve refined versions of traditional dishes, introducing visitors to authentic highland cuisine while supporting local food producers and preserving cultural knowledge.
Experience these flavors by visiting local family restaurants, staying in village guesthouses, or timing your visit during harvest festivals when traditional foods are prepared communally. Every bite connects you to centuries of highland survival, creativity, and the enduring spirit of Turkey’s mountain communities.
The taste of Ardahan is the taste of resilience – bold, honest, and unforgettable.